Dice Setters

Get in the Zone with absolute Consistency!

AhCraps is proud to introduce the first training device designed to aid you hitting that "Sweet Spot" consistently at the end of any craps table! 

The inventor, linaway, is no stranger to dice setting. He has worked out the math and concept for all the combinations of sets that can be found on a set of dice. You will find his work on sets in my dice setting training room here  and advanced study of sets here. For the past year he has developed and designed all the electronics for his one of a kind training device. After extensive testing, he is ready to share it with you!

The TZD (target zone detector) is constructed of state of the art electronics powered by one 9v battery (not included). It comes complete with two quick-change pressure sensitive target pads. 

One pad is designed for beginners to help them find their range. This larger pad has 25sq. in. of surface area that will activate a red LED located on the modual when any part of the surface comes in contact with the dice. 

The other smaller pad is designed to develop pin-point accuracy as it's light activation surface area is a mere 9sq. in. 

The LED on top of the module will automatically reset itself after each hit.

The concept is simple: Activate the light each time you toss the dice and you will be in the ZONE!

The TZD can be used on any flat surface. For the first time you never have to guess if you have hit the "sweet spot" - you will know!

Order Now your practice time will be illuminating!

Your cost is only $55.00 for complete unit with two pads.

Order now and the shipping is FREE!

Contact linaway for delivery time and method of payment:

ordertzd@yahoo.com

Ok, just incase you are one who believes a circle or cup (will not give a realistic bounce!)  is good enough. Perhaps you are right in that anything is better than nothing! But just for a minute, think of yourself as a basketball player practicing the every important free-through. Would it be good enough to draw a line on a wall where the top of the rim would be located? Well if that is all you had, it would be better than nothing. At least you would get the height and range. BUT WOULD YOU KNOW IF YOU MADE THE BASKET? Wouldn't it be worth the investment to buy a basket so you KNOW?  

Here is more information from real users: testimonials

Are you using a practice table at this time? If not get the feel of a real table at a fraction of the price and fraction of the space! I assume you have sent in your order for your TZD so you will have a few days that you could spend building your own two part table the ahcraps way. The following will be the same instructions as I give in the Dice Setting Training Room but with a few modifications to accommodate your new TZD.

The concept of this table is simple. All you need is a place to stand and toss and a place to hit the "sweet spot". Everything in-between makes no difference!

 1.  Materials needed for the official AhCraps, "Crapy" practicing Craps-almost-Table! 
        a. Two flat top TV tables.
        b. Enough pvc plastic pipe (you will know how much    when you take the measurements below), the inside diameter must be just a little larger than the outside diameter of the legs of your tables.
        c. One 24"x 18"x  24"x cardboard packing box. 
        d. One (door mat) hard rubber backed tight knit carpet.
        e. One "egg carton" twin size foam mattress cover. (Inexpensive yet is better than a flat surface.) Or you can go to the Gamblers General Store and buy a 4ft by 11in textured rubber side wall for about $60.
        f. Two yards of green felt. In a craft, or material store, 
        g. Two 8 ft. wood corner round trim.
        h. One can spray adhesive.         
         i. 6' of heavy gage wire.
         j. At least one sq. yd. of any light material (old sheet works fine.)

    2. Let's make putting all this together a fun Saturday Afternoon's Project. Oh, you work Saturday? Well, pick any day you want!
    First you will want to set up the two TV tables. Have someone hold the table up so that the top is 30 inches from the floor. Take the measuring tape and measure the distance of one leg from were it crosses the other leg (or up to a cross bar depending on the style of TV table you have) down the same angle to the floor. Make a note of that distance. Add up the total length for all 8 legs and buy enough pvc pipe to cover the total length. Remember you will need the inside diameter just large enough to fit over the legs.  Saw 8 pieces of pvc pipe to the individual lengths you just measured. Turn the tables over and slip the pipe over each leg. If it is a loose fit, stuff some paper towel in the gap between the leg and pipe. Turn the tables up and measure the vertical distance from the floor to the top of the table. (Should be 30 inches!) 

Building the Target Table

    Put the packing box together. Draw a line all around each side 11 inches from the bottom of the box. Cut along the line ending up with a box 11 inches high. Cut the long 24" front side out. You should have a 3 sided, 11 inch high box. 
    Take the 6' length of wire and bend it every 2' so it looks like a 3 sided very flat box. Take the ends and place them 3 inches on top of one of the tables so the loped end will stick out. Take some duck tape and tape down the ends on the table. Take your cardboard box and place it on top of the table so the open end lines up with the edge that the wire is attached. If the box does not sit flat, you can have to cut some slots on the bottom site to fit in the wire - do not cut through the box!
    Take the old sheet and cut it large enough that it will fit around the wire and fit at least two inches on top of the edge of the table. This will  form a net or basket. Push it down to make it deep enough so that it will trap bounced or short dice. (this will save you the headache of  locating missing dice under your furniture!)  Once you have cut the material, take the can of spray glue and spray the front edge of the table between the wire attached to the table. Take the two inch edge of the material and glue it to the table. Now take the material and form it around the lop. Spray the edges of the material and press them around the wire so the material is glued around the wire. 
    Take the extra piece of cardboard. Cut a score (only through the first layer of paper) make sure the cut runs the same way as the inside of the cardboard runs. Now measure four inches and cut another score mark. Turn it over and on the bottom end measure up 2 inches and make another score. Now bend all three score lines. If you did everything right, it should look like the black lines in the image below.

                                                   
The red line represents the back of the box that you just attached the wire and net. Now take the spray glue and spray the two inch sections and glue it to the back of the box. The 4 inch section will form a shelf where you will place your TZD module that has the LED. When you receive your module, you will cut a slit just big enough to snuggly fit the module. This will keep it from ever falling off. 
    Spray glue the top of that table and spray the outside bottom of the box. Set the box on the table and push down to bond the two surfaces. Set aside and let it dry.
    Cut an 11" strip of "egg carton" mattress cover long enough to line the three 11" sides inside the box. Spray the inside three sides of the box. Starting at one end, push the strip you just cut as you line the inside of the box. Leave a slight curve in the corners.
    Cut the rubber backed floor mat and cut a piece of green felt the size of the inside bottom of the box. Turn the mat rubber side up and spray the surface. Spray the sheet of felt and bond the two sprayed surfaces together. Spray the inside bottom of the box, spray the carpet side of the mat. Place the mat, green felt side up, inside the box and press to bond the surfaces.
    As the last touch, go get a screw driver. In the center of the back inside of the box, just above the green felt, punch a hole through the back side. This hole will accommodate the quick change wire that connects the pad to the module. 
    Go to the kitchen and pour a well deserved cup of coffee and take a break! 

Building the Pickup Table

    This one is a piece of cake! Build a box 15" high x 4" wide x (as long as your table) This is to simulate the rail that you will reach over. Glue the 4" bottom of the box, and a 4" strip of the table running down the long edge. Place the box on the table so that the edge of the box is next to the edge of the table. Cut a piece of green felt the size of the remaining portion of the table and glue it to the top of the table. Presto! Pickup point is complete. 

Making a working Craps Practice Table

    After you get done admiring your handy work, it will be time for you to put it to work! For your practice to have any value you will have to be in the proper throwing position. This will be accomplished using a measuring stick! Take one of the 8ft corner rounds and cut a 5ft piece and a 3ft piece. Make a mark on the 5ft piece 1ft from the end. Over lap the 1ft portion on top of the other 8ft piece and secure the two pieces. (you can use a small clamp so as to undo them when you are finished using them or you can tape or glue to make a permanent 12ft measuring stick - What just so happens to be the length of the average craps table!)
     Next, take the 3ft piece and cut a 45 degree notch half way through 2ft 6in from one end. This notch will fit over the "corner" of the 12ft piece making a T shape. (perpendicular to the long piece , What just so happens to the half the width of the average Craps Table!)
    Take a marking pen and mark the number "6", 6ft on the long stick. Going in either direction, make a mark 7 - 11 every 1ft to the end of the stick. The number 12 will be the end of the stick.
    Place the Target Table up against any wall. Now put the 12ft stick (blank end) in the center of the table with the end up against the textured back side. Hold the stick even  and walk down to the 7ft mark. Place the notch of the small stick on the mark. Move the Pickup Table so that the end of the small stick is in the center up against the back box rail. remove the sticks. If you did everything right, you will be positioned 7ft from the back wall of your craps table in position #8 as seen in the figure below: 

     In this position, you will be on the left side of the table next to the Stick Man throwing to the right back wall. You can see that by moving down 1ft you will be in position #7, 8ft away. Just remember that the distance you throw will never go beyond 12ft so positions #4, #3, #2 are at the flat end of the table 1ft apart. 
    To shoot from the right side of the Table just move the Target Table to the left side, flip the long stick over and move the Pickup table to the right to positions #9 - #16. 
    The reason it will be important for you to become proficient throwing the dice in any position is to eliminate the "Favorite Position Syndrome" Don't ever miss great table action because someone is standing in YOUR spot! 
    Now that you know how to set up your "Crapy" Table, let's make use of it!
    If you are a beginner, take the large pad and position the edge where the wire comes out about 3 inches away from the back wall center. Take the connect end and fish it through the hole you made with the screw driver and connect it to the module that you have on the top shelf.  Use the large pad until you can turn the light on with every toss. At that time switch to the small pad. Again placing the wire edge about 3 inches from the back wall. When the time comes that you can turn the light on with every toss (ok maybe you can miss one or two - no one is perfect!),   cut 18 x 18 inch piece of felt. Make sure there are no seams as it must lay flat. Place the felt with one edge at the back wall so the pad is covered! Now turn the light on with every toss and you will be in the Zone! The confidence you gain in your practice time will carry to the casino - Just hit the sweet spot!

This may seem silly, but how you hold or grip the dice can prove to be very important. So as you begin to practice with your new "table" and new TZD, keep in mind how you are picking up the dice as you begin the important toss.

Get a Grip!

    First, use only Casino Dice! These are used dice that the casino gets rid of after about 8 hours of use. The size and weight are important. Buy sets of different colors and from different casinos. This way you will not fall into the superstitious trap that only a certain color will work for you. 
    Standing behind the pickup point, reach over the "rail" and pick up the dice. This should be practiced in three ways. If there are more, please let me know!
    1) Side by Side. You will be able to develop a thumb - finger grip that is most comfortable for you. But to start, use your thumb at one end and the second finger at the other end with the first finger touching where the two die  come together. Using this grip one die will follow the other to the target. If you put three fingers on the front side and your thumb on the back side where the two join, you will be able to turn your hand 45 degrees so that both die are side by side facing the back wall. 
    2) Stacked one on top of the other. This will prove to be a useful arrangement for certain sets. To grip use your thumb at one side in the middle of the stack and the second finger on the opposite side with your first finger resting on top. I encourage you to experiment with slightly offsetting the stack, seems to produce less action during the throw. 
    3) One die in front of the other. This is a classic example of the "Teacher" - "Student" becoming a student. Free4 posted a message about this grip on the "Hot Shot Message Board". This board is filling up with some good Crap! Anyway, I have been experimenting with this grip, and like Free4, I find it to be very comfortable. You can set the dice side by side then turn them 45 degrees. Place your first finger on the leading die, with your thumb on one side and your second and third fingers on the other side (holding the joining die together). I have found this to be a comfortable grip when it is limited to the side position facing the dealer. If you are right handed, you should be on the left side of the table. If you are left handed, you should be on the right side of the table. This way the dice will be side by side facing the back wall. If you are at the straight away end of the table it will take a wrist or "digging" throw to get the dice to the other end. If you are right handed and throw from the right side, you will be throwing with your thumb leading. But who knows, this maybe comfortable for you. Life is one big class room! 

The Throw

    Having the proper grip, and knowing your target is of no value without getting the dice from the pickup point to the target! You must develop a consistent "rhythm" of speed and arc from every position of the table. If the force of your throw (speed) is too slight or to much, you will miss your target or not achieve the proper "bounce". The top of your arc should never go higher than eye level of the average person. Try to keep the dice together (no spin) as long as you can before they hit the target. This will take control, but is doable! Sorry, but nothing more can be said about throwing. Because each individual is different, you must develop the skill of "rhythm" throwing that fits you. This can only be done through individual practice! 
    Take your time developing your individual rhythm!  Believe it or not, setting the numbers before you throw is just a small part of this skill. When the time is right for you, it will be time to learn the different sets and move on to the second phase of your learning curve.

Once you have mastered this important step in your training you will want to understand "Sets" and how they work. For that you can go to my Dice Setting Training Room:  click Here

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