AhCraps

                                        All written content is under Copyright ©  2001 by Larry Freiwald, For personal use only

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Boy are you in for a treat! I want you to know that I was a real klutz when it was my turn to throw the bones. However, after taking this class and practicing what I learned, I not only "Look" like I know what I am doing - I know what I am doing! Because I use this "Crapy" Site, I have the best of two worlds - Because I let lose of a few bucks (No discount for me! But it was worth every penny!) I learned to play the Situation when other players throw the dice, and I have the confidence to make long rolls when I throw the dice! Man am I good!! You can be good too - in fact you can be better than I am. (My boss eats up my practice time - don't tell him, but when you are off line - I get out my table and nail those bones!) Speaking of my Boss, he wants to invite you on a journey with the expected end resulting in your becoming the best Setter you can be! He also wanted me to tell you about his special "Hot Shot" message board. Get and Give fresh information about setting! 

    Thanks Craps Man for the intro. We will talk about your "free time" in my office! Welcome to this special area of my site. I knew that my site would not be complete until I combined teaching the mental skills  (Basics and Advanced training to understand trends, and strategy) with teaching the physical skill of throwing the dice. However, Setting is more than just throwing the dice. It is the developed skill of "setting" a specific number combination, with a practiced controlled throw to a specified "sweet spot" at the end of the table. The end result of that controlled throw resulting in an expected outcome.

    Understand that I did not start out thinking this way. In fact, throwing the dice never appealed to me. Looking back on my past "craping" experience, I now understand why. When it was time for me to throw the dice, I felt like I was under a microscope! All I could think of was that hundreds, if not thousands of dollars, were riding on my "performance"! I had no consistent style - and everybody could see that. The fed-up glares outweighed the occasional cheers from the other players until it got to the point that I would just wave the dice to the next player! My focus became understanding trends and develop strategies to take advantage of the natural flow of the numbers. The successful end of that focus resulted in the birth of ahcraps.com.   

    Not until I met some great Web Buddies did I understand the added excitement I was missing out on by avoiding this learnable skill. Thanks to two special, knowledgeable setters, a guy that goes by the name Free 4 and a graphic artist Vic Trombley, I was presented with an irresistible challenge. Both of them, individually, and in their own way, as much said, "Larry, our understanding of the game of craps has made us better players because of what we have learned from you. We want to share our skill with you. Are you ready to become the Student instead of the Teacher? With that offer and challenge, my focus turned to becoming the best all around craps player I could be!

    The teaching style I have chosen for this setting training room is going to be unique, but I believe it to be the most effective! I have received valuable information in graphic form and lengthy conversations from both Free 4 and Vic. Because I was in an unique learning position, I could analyze the information from both and extract the best from both! I also became a web sponge. However, the personal contact proved to be most useful because they could answer questions that I had. The following is going to be a step by step view as I combined all the information during my learning phase, while at the same time developing a universal teaching format. In a sense, you will be taught by a student that had the same questions and Pre-Practice Excitement that you should be experiencing. I have trimmed all the fat so as to speed your learning curve. If you are ready, I invite you on my journey. 

1. Overcoming Obstacles         

    The biggest drawback I had was changing my attitude (mindset) about the claims associated with setting dice. I also had to overcome the time and space constrains that would prevent the physical practice required to master this skill. I knew that before I even picked up a pair of dice, these issues had to be addressed and solved!

    1) Is it possible to throw any one of a specific group of numbers on command by simply setting the numbers in a certain position prier to throwing? This question took faith based on the integrity of  trusted setters and observation of live setting to be answered a Qualified Yes! (Special note: Setting is different from loading or a technique called sliding the dice. The last two are illegal and can be chargeable offences!)   
    At first I had to answer some nagging assumptions based on that first question. If this first question was absolutely true, I would have to throw out all I have leaned about random distribution of numbers! Or did I? I wondered what the casinos must be thinking. As I stated in my Manual and Big Red Strategy, Casinos depend on the long term average of true odds to produce their income. They work hard to keep shooting the dice as random as possible. They catch you manipulating the true odds and they will stop you! (Case in point - card counting) If the casinos felt setting was giving an unfair advantage to the player - why don't they establish a no setting rule? After all, setting is not a covert activity! After talking to the Pit Boss in several casinos, the general thought is that it is not a problem. The few experienced Setters that throw long rolls with some sense of consistency fall within the normal probability of random rolls. What peeked my interest is that they recognize "Experienced Setters that throw long rolls"! 
    There is no way that setting can be proven to work. There is no way one shooter can throw two sets of dice simultaneously, one random, the other by first setting the numbers to determine if there is a difference. Besides, there are too many human factors involved such as throwing consistency and concentration. This is why I think the casino does not look at it as a threat. 
    If the casinos, who are in the business to know such things, do not believe setting gives the player an edge, Why should I give the validity of the practice a qualified YES? Remember, my success comes in the form of understanding 7-cycles and playing the situation. I was satisfied passing the dice to the next shooter! Why should I invest my time in learning this skill unless it was to my benefit? The reason is that I do believe it works some of the time and will work more times as my skill level increases. The success of this practice falls into the realm of the unexplained! Since I am the one promoting the unexplained "Knower" by predicting short cycles to deal with the unexplained value of Trends, then I am willing to accept the unexplained nature of setting. This acceptance establish a mindset that will motivate me to learn and practice with the same zeal I had understanding and developing  Situational Craps! Besides, I look forward walking up to a craps table with the confidence of a Setter, and a Situational Craps Player!

    2) My time is at a premium. We will make time for things we value! I spent hundreds of hours understanding trends through the filter of 7-cycles. The reason I found the time to devote to that study was because it had value. It was an investment in my future play. I had the proper Mindset! The reason I spent so much time resolving question #1 was to establish a proper Mindset. Once Setting was shown to have value - I was willing to make the time!
    I knew that I had to set up a schedule to learn setting in the proper order. I understood that there were two phases of learning. The first phase, and most difficult, would be to establish a consistent style of throwing the dice. I first had to learn to hit a "target" with the proper speed and arc. This phase has nothing to do with "setting" numbers on the dice. My total focus was on establishing a consistent rhythm from different positions around the table. I set no time limit on how long that phase would take. But I dedicated a minimum of one half hour a day practicing just throwing the dice. I made up my mind that only when I felt confident hitting the target would I move on to the second phase of learning which number set worked for my style of throw. Setting up a time schedule brought me to the 3rd and last obstacle I had to  overcome.

    3) I live in a small apartment, I would need something to practice on! The average craps table is 12 feet long and 5 feet wide and would cost over $4000! Out of the question for me! However, if you have the room and pocket book to build or buy your own full size craps table, Vic gave me some great on-line resources: You can get a Construction Manual for a 10 ft. craps table for a cost of $25.85.  Here is another great site to buy the actual material you will need to build a table or you can purchase one ready to ship! Just go to the Gamblers General Store  .
    But I needed something I could build with common materials and small enough to use in my apartment utilizing the required throwing distance for a 12 ft. table! This is what I came up with and has served me well. 
    First I realized that all I needed was two points - a pickup point (my position at a table) and a drop zone (the target at the opposite end of the table). I built these two points as follows:

    1.  Materials needed for the official AhCraps, "Crapy" practicing Craps-almost-Table! 
        a. Two flat top TV tables.
        b. Enough pvc plastic pipe (you will know how much    when you take the measurements below), the inside diameter must be just a little larger than the outside diameter of the legs of your tables.
        c. One 24"x 18"x  24"x cardboard packing box. 
        d. One (door mat) hard rubber backed tight knit carpet.
        e. One "egg carton" twin size foam mattress cover. (Inexpensive yet is better than a flat surface.) Or you can go to the Gamblers General Store and buy a 4ft by 11in textured rubber side wall for about $60.
        f. One yard of green felt. In a craft store, buy a small sheet of self stick white felt, (used to line the bottom of lamps). 
        g. Two 8 ft. wood corner round trim.
        h. One can spray adhesive.

    2. Let's make putting all this together a fun Saturday Afternoon's Project. Oh, you work Saturday? Well, pick any day you want!
    First you will want to set up the two TV tables. Have someone hold the table up so that the top is 30 inches from the floor. Take the measuring tape and measure the distance of one leg from were it crosses the other leg (or up to a cross bar depending on the style of TV table you have) down the same angle to the floor. Make a note of that distance. Add up the total length for all 8 legs and buy enough pvc pipe to cover the total length. Remember you will need the inside diameter just large enough to fit over the legs.  Saw 8 pieces of pvc pipe to the individual lengths you just measured. Turn the tables over and slip the pipe over each leg. If it is a loose fit, stuff some paper towel in the gap between the leg and pipe. Turn the tables up and measure the vertical distance from the floor to the top of the table. (Should be 30 inches!) 

Building the Target Table

    Put the packing box together. Draw a line all around each side 11 inches from the bottom of the box. Cut along the line ending up with a box 11 inches high. Cut the long 24" front side out. You should have a 3 sided, 11 inch high box. 
    Spray glue the top of one table and spray the outside bottom of the box. Set the box on the table and push down to bond the two surfaces. Set aside and let it dry.
    Cut an 11" strip of "egg carton" mattress cover long enough to line the three 11" sides inside the box. Spray the inside three sides of the box. Starting at one end, push the strip you just cut as you line the inside of the box. Leave a slight curve in the corners.
    Cut the rubber backed floor mat and cut a piece of green felt the size of the inside bottom of the box. Turn the mat rubber side up and spray the surface. Spray the sheet of felt and bond the two sprayed surfaces together. Spray the inside bottom of the box, spray the carpet side of the mat. Place the mat, green felt side up, inside the box and press to bond the surfaces.
    Get a coffee cup, pen, and sheet of white felt. Place the cup upside down on the felt and draw a circle around the cup. Cut out the circle. Make a small mark on the green felt surface of the box, center, and 3 inches from the back textured wall. Peal the cover of the sticky back off and take it to the box. Place the top of the white circle on the mark so it will be 3" from the back and press down to secure it.
    Take the coffee cup to the kitchen and pour a well deserved cup of coffee and take a break! 

Building the Pickup Table

    This one is a piece of cake! Build a box 15" high x 4" wide x (as long as your table) This is to simulate the rail that you will reach over. Glue the 4" bottom of the box, and a 4" strip of the table running down the long edge. Place the box on the table so that the edge of the box is next to the edge of the table. Cut a piece of green felt the size of the remaining portion of the table and glue it to the top of the table. Presto! Pickup point is complete. 

Making a working Craps Practice Table

    After you get done admiring your handy work, it will be time for you to put it to work! For your practice to have any value you will have to be in the proper throwing position. This will be accomplished using a measuring stick! Take one of the 8ft corner rounds and cut a 5ft piece and a 3ft piece. Make a mark on the 5ft piece 1ft from the end. Over lap the 1ft portion on top of the other 8ft piece and secure the two pieces. (you can use a small clamp so as to undo them when you are finished using them or you can tape or glue to make a permanent 12ft measuring stick - What just so happens to be the length of the average craps table!)
     Next, take the 3ft piece and cut a 45 degree notch half way through 2ft 6in from one end. This notch will fit over the "corner" of the 12ft piece making a T shape. (perpendicular to the long piece , What just so happens to the half the width of the average Craps Table!)
    Take a marking pen and mark the number "6", 6ft on the long stick. Going in either direction, make a mark 7 - 11 every 1ft to the end of the stick. The number 12 will be the end of the stick.
    Place the Target Table up against any wall. Now put the 12ft stick (blank end) in the center of the table with the end up against the textured back side. Hold the stick even  and walk down to the 7ft mark. Place the notch of the small stick on the mark. Move the Pickup Table so that the end of the small stick is in the center up against the back box rail. remove the sticks. If you did everything right, you will be positioned 7ft from the back wall of your craps table in position #8 as seen in the figure below: 

     In this position, you will be on the left side of the table next to the Stick Man throwing to the right back wall. You can see that by moving down 1ft you will be in position #7, 8ft away. Just remember that the distance you throw will never go beyond 12ft so positions #4, #3, #2 are at the flat end of the table 1ft apart. 
    To shoot from the right side of the Table just move the Target Table to the left side, flip the long stick over and move the Pickup table to the right to positions #9 - #16. 
    The reason it will be important for you to become proficient throwing the dice in any position is to eliminate the "Favorite Position Syndrome" Don't ever miss great table action because someone is standing in YOUR spot! 
    Now that you know how to set up your "Crapy" Table, let's make use of it!

Breaking News! If you are serious about learning the skill of dice setting, You must be a proud owner of the electronic TZD to help you find the "Sweet Spot"! For more information click Here.

Casino rules

    Larry Edell has written an excellent article about what the Casino expects from anyone who shoots the dice. Take a minute and read it as posted in the Mens Craper. You will be able to return here to Get a Grip at the bottom of his article.

Get a Grip!

    First, use only Casino Dice! These are used dice that the casino gets rid of after about 8 hours of use. The size and weight are important. Buy sets of different colors and from different casinos. This way you will not fall into the superstitious trap that only a certain color will work for you. 
    Standing behind the pickup point, reach over the "rail" and pick up the dice. This should be practiced in three ways. If there are more, please let me know!
    1) Side by Side. You will be able to develop a thumb - finger grip that is most comfortable for you. But to start, use your thumb at one end and the second finger at the other end with the first finger touching where the two die  come together. Using this grip one die will follow the other to the target. If you put three fingers on the front side and your thumb on the back side where the two join, you will be able to turn your hand 45 degrees so that both die are side by side facing the back wall. 
    2) Stacked one on top of the other. This will prove to be a useful arrangement for certain sets. To grip use your thumb at one side in the middle of the stack and the second finger on the opposite side with your first finger resting on top. I encourage you to experiment with slightly offsetting the stack, seems to produce less action during the throw. 
    3) One die in front of the other. This is a classic example of the "Teacher" - "Student" becoming a student. Free4 posted a message about this grip on the "Hot Shot Message Board". This board is filling up with some good Crap! Anyway, I have been experimenting with this grip, and like Free4, I find it to be very comfortable. You can set the dice side by side then turn them 45 degrees. Place your first finger on the leading die, with your thumb on one side and your second and third fingers on the other side (holding the joining die together). I have found this to be a comfortable grip when it is limited to the side position facing the dealer. If you are right handed, you should be on the left side of the table. If you are left handed, you should be on the right side of the table. This way the dice will be side by side facing the back wall. If you are at the straight away end of the table it will take a wrist or "digging" throw to get the dice to the other end. If you are right handed and throw from the right side, you will be throwing with your thumb leading. But who knows, this maybe comfortable for you. Life is one big class room! 

The Target

    Focus on the white circle at the end of the table. The object will be to hit anywhere inside the white area with enough force to bounce up, hit the textured wall and land no more than 4 to 6 inches from the wall. You will want to minimize the "action" of the dice. This is going to be a delicate balance between keeping the "set integrity" and following the rules of the casino! It is best to move the target from center every once in a while. If the real table you play on has that spot cluttered with chips, you will feel comfortable hitting other targets! 

The Throw

    Having the proper grip, and knowing your target is of no value without getting the dice from the pickup point to the target! You must develop a consistent "rhythm" of speed and arc from every position of the table. If the force of your throw (speed) is too slight or to much, you will miss your target or not achieve the proper "bounce". The top of your arc should never go higher than eye level of the average person. Try to keep the dice together (no spin) as long as you can before they hit the target. This will take control, but is doable! Sorry, but nothing more can be said about throwing. Because each individual is different, you must develop the skill of "rhythm" throwing that fits you. This can only be done through individual practice! 
    Take your time developing your individual rhythm!  Believe it or not, setting the numbers before you throw is just a small part of this skill. When the time is right for you, it will be time to learn the different sets and move on to the second phase of your learning curve.  

What is Setting?    

    Setting is done by arranging numbers (dots) before you throw them. To define different sets, the numbers that you create on top of the dice as they rest on the felt, and the numbers you create on the side facing you are the only ones that are important. For example, t5/2, fs4/3 (t for top, and fs for facing side) is one set. The first red number in each group is for one die and the second black number is the other die! Getting use to this way of identifying a set will prove to be useful. Just ask the Stickman for the (t) numbers and you will already have half the set made for you! 
    The theory behind Setting is to "Stack" certain combinations of numbers prior to a controlled throw that will give you the best chance for a predetermined outcome. Is there a "Magic Set" that will work all the time? NO! If you were to ask 10 different Setters which is the best Set to use, You will receive 10 different answers! I know because I have done it. The reason is simple: There is one universal factor and many individual factors involved that will determine the outcome of any set. The universal factor is the set itself. However, it is the individual factors that will have the most influence for a predetermined outcome. The individual factors are all involved in the individual controlled throw. They are Concentration, Speed, Arc, and Accuracy to the target, which will affect the overall action of the dice. The reality is that only you will be able to determine what set works for your individual style of throwing!  
    If you accept this reality, it's time to combine your developed throwing "rhythm" with different "sets" until you find ones that fit your style. Free4 says that there are 552 combinations! To prove he knows what he is talking about, he gives the math in Section 2 "More Sets". This is a real treat if you are a math enthusiast. For me, I just trust his word! 
    At this stage, there is no point in confusing you with all the possible combinations. However, you have to start somewhere. I am going to start you off by showing you some remarkable sets that will give you the best chance to throw (combined with individual style) Horn numbers and one that will give you the best chance to throw  Point numbers.  

 Horn Set that has worked for me!

    Get a set of casino dice. On one die have the 4 facing up and the 2 facing you. On the other die have the 3 facing up and the 5 facing you. (t4/3. fs2/5) Pick them up and add each side. All 7's! This is a good set for come-outs. Practice throwing this set and see if it fits your style. To keep track of the numbers that result is going to be easy. Just like keeping track of 7 cycles, I have provided you with a Chart that you can print. As you can see, the first two lines are where you write in the set that you are testing. Below Set #1 put (top #) 4/3. In the second line (Front #) put 2/5. Going down the page put the number that results from each roll. The list goes to 34 rolls but you can continue by going to Set #2 and put in the same set. 
    The same Set can be arranged this way: (t2/5, fs3/4) (t1/6, fs5/2) (t5/2, fs6/1) 

Point number set that has worked for me!

    This is an exciting Set for producing "right" numbers! The Sets go like this: (t5/1, fs4,4) Check out all the numbers going around and in the split!  (t4/4, fs1/5)  (t1/5, fs3/3) (t3/3, fs6/2) Play with the dice and see how many you can come up with! 
    If you found the "Stacking" Grip (one die on top of the other) was good for you, here is an easy way to get this 6/8 set in the Stacked position: (t2/1, fs4/4) now just put one die on top of the other!

Setting in a Casino, when you are ready to take the plunge!

    You can cut your setting time in half by simply asking the Stickman to give you the numbers you want on top! Nobody wants a "hot" table slowed down by a slow setter.

I always like taking the pause of you "Bone Heads"! Do you believe the information that you have received so far in this unique training room will help you or not? 

If you are looking for more information about different useful sets, please review and study the second section below before you vote. Your feedback is important!  Contact Larry Freiwald

   Home   Other pages   

Becoming a skilled craps player requires developing both the physical (dice setting) and the mental aspects (understanding strategy and when to use what works) of this great game. This site provides you the opportunity to become skilled in both of these important areas on your why to become a consistent winner! Before you tackle Section 2 and perhaps continue your study of sets in the advanced e-manual, I invite you to check out the unique philosophy of Situational Craps to master the mental aspect of this game. To learn more click Here. If you understand and agree with this philosophy, and want to learn how to sign up for my special Sit-Craps training area, click Here.   

Section 2

Other sets

    The above Sets should keep you busy for a long while! However, there will be a time when you will want to investigate other sets that will give you the best chance for Place Numbers and Horn Numbers. With 552 different sets to choose from, the task can be daunting! In my focused goal to make ahcraps.com the best site on the web concerning the game of Craps, I have arranged to provide you with top 55 sets (5 for each individual number.) At my request, Free4 (lineaway) has done a  analyses of the most productive sets for each number. This is to provide you with a quick reference. He has also written a comprehensive manual  below is a link for you to get all the information about the art of selecting useful sets. My sincere thanks goes out for the time and effort he put in providing the following information! 
    Please do not be mislead by the following information! The sets for each individual number are based on the frequency of that number showing in that set. But more important, (in the case of point numbers) the infrequency of the 7 showing. These are ideal conditions (planet x) and do not represent the actual physical outcome for a particular number! We are in an unexplained area of how this works. For example, the sets that I shared with you above, are not statistically the best sets - but they work for me! Go figure! What is important is that you have the best chance to throw point numbers after a come-out and horn numbers during a come-out. The actual outcome will still depend on everything mentioned above. Select the best sets that work for you! To do that, you will have to experiment with different sets. Understand that this will take many throws of a particular set before you put your confidence of your ability in a set to risk your money! 

Best Sets for Point Numbers  

Best Sets for Come-Out                

In the beginning of your training, it would be great to have something to keep track of your progress! I recently met a computer guru who designed an excel (97 or above) based program that will help you understand your patterns.  

Here is a sample of the many ways this program can help you:

CRAT (the name given to this program) was designed to provide the enlightened few whom believe that with sufficient practice and dedication to developing the ART of Precision Dice Rolling, you can ultimately produce results that are contrary to theoretical probabilities. CRAT will allow the interested amateur as well as the dedicated professional the ability to record and accurately analyze and track the practice rolls that you are making, (with the anticipation that the ability/methods you are using during your practice sessions can be duplicated during live play at your favorite local casino). There are a significant number of variables that (potentially) could effect your roll results - these can be tracked and analyzed via graphs and charts to see what, (if any), signature numbers are present within your data. You will be able to compare your results from last week, last month etc. to what you are doing today - to determine if, (and where), you are making improvements - or - where you need to expand your abilities. 

You will be able to record and modify nine distinct variables that may effect the roll result: 
1. How do you feel today / room hot or cold / high humidity / etc. 
2. Table position. 
3. Type of die grip being used, (you will be able to define your specific grip - up to a maximum of nine separate entries). 
4. Targeted landing area - Corner. 
5. Targeted landing area - Center. 
6. Pre throw die set, enter the pre set every roll - OR - define up to six pre sets as constants that will be maintained until modified by the user, (or a new session is started). 
7. Distance from table wall that die landed. 
8. Number of die that hit the table wall. 
9. Distance of die roll back from table wall. During each session, (a session being defined as a die rolling period of some number of rolls), 

The following data is assembled from each roll for constant inspection by the user: 
1. The best pre set for each point number. 
2. Active point number. 
3. Point ON / OFF. 
4. Pass line WIN - (count plus color display). 
5. Pass line LOST - (count plus color display). 
6. Last PRE ROLL SET, (in both numerical and AXIS SET format). 
7. Last POST ROLL SET, (in both numerical and AXIS SET format). 
8. Has a constant pre set been defined and activated by the user. 
9. Did die one ROTATE away from pre set. 
10. Did die two ROTATE away from pre set. 
11. Is pre roll set ENABLED. 
12. Is die ROTATE calculation ENABLED. 
13. Place bet simulation activated. 
14. Place bets WON - (count plus color display). 
15. Place bets LOST - (count plus color display). 
16. Session - ARBL / SRR : Updated each seven out. 
17. RECORD - ARBL / SRR : Updated when/if achieved. 
18. Session number. 
19. Database record count.

You can see that this program will provide you with much information as you are in your training phase. For more information, you can contact the author, Lynn Crewse, by a simple e-mail: ivon2403@attbi.com  from what I understand (any time it my change) Lynn is offering this program as a qulified "free". Yes it is free, but if it works, and you see the value, there is "volunteer  $25 donation" that will be expected to show the value of the time spent putting this program together. 

I hope that this beginning training room has been as much help to you as it has to me putting it together! If you wish to continue your study of how sets are determined, I invite you to study a comprehensive e-manual that Free-4, (lineaway) has put together on the "nuts and bolts" of axis rotation as it relates to dice setting.

Click here e-manual

I invite you to post any other resources that you have come across on the hot shot message board. You can be a help to others by posting your successful sets